How to Get a Rolex at Retail: Insider Tips
For any watch collector, the ultimate goal is to purchase a Rolex from an authorised dealer at retail price. But if it were that easy, everyone would already have one. Drawing on over 10 years of experience in watch collecting, I’ll break down the essential steps to help you navigate this journey.
You might be wondering—how do I know what it takes to get a Rolex at retail? Well, I’ve been in your shoes. I’ve asked the tough questions and learned the process directly from authorised dealers.
Before we dive in, note that while the information below is based on real experiences and insights, things can change over time, so always confirm with your dealer before quoting any specifics.
Setting Expectations
Before getting started, it’s important to manage your expectations. If you’re thinking of getting a highly coveted model like the Rolex Daytona, let’s set things straight now.
Rolex watches are categorised by demand:
- High-demand watches (e.g., Steel Rolex Daytona 126500LN) typically require a prior purchase history, which we’ll discuss later.
- Lower-demand watches (e.g., Datejust 36 in steel with a domed bezel) may be easier to acquire, making them a more realistic “first Rolex” for someone without previous purchases.
Check out Grey Market to understand more about the waiting list on models such as the Rolex Daytona
The "Wait List"
You may have heard about the “wait list”—a mythical lineup of people waiting for the same model. However, the reality is a bit different. Authorised dealers refer to this as your “Registration of Interest.” This doesn’t guarantee you’ll receive the watch; it simply notifies the dealer of your intent to purchase a specific model or configuration.
For instance, in group-owned ADs, you can register interest for up to three watches simultaneously. These can be the same model in different configurations or three entirely different models.
Once you register interest—say, for a Steel Submariner non-date—this shows up on your account, and the waiting period begins.
The Pre-Authorised List
The “pre-authorised list” is an internal dealer system that determines whether you qualify to purchase the watch you’ve expressed interest in. It takes into account the demand for the watch and your purchase history.
For example:
- If you have no purchase history and register for a high-demand watch like the Rolex Daytona, you won’t be pre-authorised because other clients with purchase histories are given priority.
- If you’re eyeing a low-demand model, like a Datejust 36 in steel, you’ll likely be pre-authorised, as demand is lower.
Factors such as second-hand value, the number of units received, and pre-existing clients waiting for the watch influence these decisions.
Purchase History
Purchase history refers to the total amount you’ve spent at a specific store, including purchases of Rolex watches, other watch brands, and jewellery. To qualify for the opportunity to buy certain high-demand models, like the Rolex Daytona, a significant purchase history is often required. The exact amount can vary by region.
Typically, the Rolex Daytona in Steel is reserved for VIP and VVIP customers.
For example:
- VIP customers generally have a purchase history ranging from £80,000 to £150,000.
- VVIP customers typically have spent over £300,000.
However, many other Rolex models are not restricted by purchase history and are classified as “First Rolex,” meaning they are considered entry-level options. These typically include certain sizes of the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models, though availability may vary depending on dial colour and the popularity of the specific model.
The Waiting Period
If you’re fortunate enough to make it onto the pre-authorised list, the next step is enduring the waiting period. The wait time can vary widely based on factors like Rolex’s monthly supply, manufacturing issues, popularity of the model, and even potential discontinuations.
For example:
- The Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” (blue and red bezel) faced manufacturing challenges, particularly with the bezel insert, limiting availability to only 1-2 watches per store per year. With 200 people on the pre-authorised list, this could mean a waiting period of decades.
The typical lifespan of a Rolex model is around 5-10 years before being discontinued or replaced by a new variation (e.g., the Rolex Hulk 116610LV, which was produced for 10 years before being discontinued in 2020).
Increasing In-Store Spend
Some collectors believe that purchasing jewellery or watches from other brands helps reduce waiting times for high-demand Rolex models. While this isn’t confirmed, it’s widely believed that increasing your general spend at an authorised dealer can improve your chances of acquiring more exclusive pieces.
This approach may not significantly cut down your waiting time but can enhance your standing, especially for hard-to-get models.
Building Relationships
Establishing a strong relationship with your authorised dealer is crucial. If you’re one of 200 people on a pre-authorised list, it’s helpful to be memorable. Regular visits, friendly interactions, and realistic conversations about your collection can go a long way.
Remember, AD staff are regular people—don’t overwhelm them with constant talk about watches. Keep things light and genuine.
Discontinuations
If a watch you’re waiting for gets discontinued, your position on the “list” is erased. However, the time you spent waiting can often be transferred to another model that you’re authorised to purchase. Unfortunately, this doesn’t apply to newly released models, only those you’ve been waiting for prior to the discontinuation.
By following these insider tips and understanding the process, you’ll be better equipped to navigate the often elusive world of purchasing a Rolex at retail. Stay patient, build relationships, and manage your expectations—it’s a journey, but one that can be incredibly rewarding!
Is this the end of the Bremont Watch Company?
With Bremont making their debut at Watches and Wonders for the first time in their history, the unveiling of their new branding and watch concept seems to have sparked considerable backlash from longtime owners. The shift away from the unique designs crafted by the English brothers has left many questioning the future direction of the Henley-on-Thames watchmaker. The pressing question on everyone's minds: Is this the end of Bremont as we know it?
The CEO
Image from WatchPro
The Branding
Under the leadership of the new CEO, a fresh visual identity emerged for Bremont, but unfortunately, it failed to meet the expectations set by the previous branding. The introduction of a new compass logo and accompanying typeface leaned more towards a military aesthetic, diverging from the classy and elegant image Bremont collectors had grown accustomed to. Some critics even likened the new look to the style of the clothing brand Stone Island, which didn’t quite align with the prestige expected of a luxury watch brand.
As glimpses of the brand’s new identity surfaced on social media, it became increasingly evident that this departure from Bremont’s aviation heritage could potentially impact the success of the watch launches.
The Watches
As Watches and Wonders unfolded, the unveiling of the new watches adorned with Bremont’s revamped identity sparked a wave of confusion and disappointment among onlookers. While the new timepieces weren’t necessarily unattractive, they failed to exude the essence of a luxury watch brand like Bremont. Each watch boasted intricate craftsmanship, yet the overall impression left many feeling underwhelmed.
Existing owners found themselves questioning the design decisions behind each model and were quick to point out perceived corners cut to minimize expenses on the new range. The narrative surrounding each watch’s creation aimed for authenticity, but the execution fell short of expectations, leaving a lingering sense of disappointment in its wake.
The Price
With the introduction of new models inevitably comes a fresh set of prices, and for current enthusiasts disheartened by the radical changes, this proved to be another point of contention. Many were taken aback by the pricing of the new models, further alienating them from the brand they once cherished. Some went as far as comparing Bremont to micro brands still finding their place in the market, noting the striking similarities in pricing with more established and meticulously crafted brands like Tudor.
Is this the end of the Bremont we've come to know?
Are Rolex watch prices still on the decline?
Indeed, some Rolex models continue to see secondary price declines, primarily because of reduced demand at retail. However, it's important to note that the majority of Steel Sports Rolex Models are maintaining their value well. We anticipate that these particular watches won't dip below their retail prices anytime soon.
Rolex GMT Master II
The GMT Master II stands out as one of Rolex’s most sought-after sports models, often commanding lengthy waiting lists, averaging around three years for a steel variant. Since the introduction of the Black and Blue Bezel GMT, fondly dubbed ‘The Batman’, in 2016, this range has experienced a notable surge in demand, resulting in increased premiums. Among the GMT Master II lineup, we anticipate that the following references will continue to carry premiums above their list prices for the foreseeable future, encompassing both Oyster and Jubilee variants:
- ‘Batman / Batgirl’ reference: 126710BLNR
- ‘Pepsi’ reference: 126710BLRO
- ‘Sprite’ reference: 126720VTNR
- ‘Bruce Wayne’ reference: 126710GRNR
Rolex Daytona
Rolex’s most coveted timepiece undoubtedly remains the Daytona. Its evolution, notably with the introduction of a ceramic bezel in 2016, initiated what we now recognize as the infamous ‘waitlist’. Demand for this iconic watch soared, with average wait times initially hovering around 3-6 months. Fast forward to today, and prospective buyers face an astonishing wait of approximately 10-15 years, assuming they’re fortunate enough to secure a spot on a waiting list in the first place.
Similar to the GMT Master II, the most sought-after Daytona models are all in steel variants, including the ‘Panda & Reverse Panda’ reference: 126500LN.
Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner reigns as the world’s most coveted steel sports model. Although more accessible at retail through authorized dealers, steel variants of these watches still command a modest premium for buyers seeking one within a two-year timeframe. For those keen on preserving value, we suggest considering the following models:
- ‘Submariner Date’ reference: 126610LN
- ‘Submariner Non-Date’ reference: 124060LN
- ‘Kermit / Starbucks’ reference: 126610LV
Rolex Sky-Dweller
The Rolex Sky-Dweller stands out as one of the most intricate timepieces ever crafted by Rolex. Securing a steel variant with either a blue or green dial demands a notable premium. Prospective buyers should brace themselves for a potential wait of around three years for the opportunity to acquire one. For those determined to pursue this horological gem, the model number to keep in mind is:
Blue/Green dial – reference: 336934
So what should you do?
While it’s unlikely that any of these Rolex models will dip below retail price, our guiding principle remains: invest in a timepiece you truly enjoy. While the idea of a watch retaining its value is appealing, fixating solely on this aspect could lead to dissatisfaction. It’s crucial to choose a watch that resonates with you, as focusing solely on its value might result in regret and potential financial loss if you decide to sell it later on.
For more help on this subject, check out our Article: Is a Rolex Watch a Good Short-Term Investment in 2024?
The Worst 3 Rolex Watch Releases from Watches and Wonders 2024.
Where there are triumphs, there inevitably lurk a few disappointments. Let's delve into the three Rolex watches from Watches & Wonders 2024 that failed to impress, earning them a spot among the year's biggest letdowns.
Rolex DeepSea - A.k.a 'The Oil Baron'
The new Rolex Deepsea in full gold is a conversation starter. While its hefty 18k gold construction makes it less suited for deep dives, it offers a luxurious take on a professional-grade timepiece. This might appeal to collectors who value Rolex’s engineering heritage with a touch of opulence. However, the substantial weight and price point compared to the stainless steel Deepsea may limit its audience.
Rolex Daytona - M.O.P Dial & Diamond Bezel
The new gem-set Daytona collection offers a luxurious take on the iconic chronograph, featuring sparkling diamonds and a rare pearl dial. While it caters to a distinct clientele comfortable with a £90-100,000 price tag, it might not be the most universally desired iteration of the Daytona.
Rolex Sky-Dweller - Jubilee Variant
The Rolex market softening has impacted the Sky-Dweller, especially full yellow or rose gold models priced above £40,000. Rolex’s introduction of a Sky-Dweller with a jubilee bracelet presents an interesting twist. While it might increase the retail price, it could also broaden the watch’s appeal to those who prefer the jubilee style. The net effect on secondary market prices remains to be seen.
What did Rolex do well in 2024?
Rolex’s Watches and Wonders 2024 lineup offered a diverse range of releases, with some models sparking more excitement than others. Check out our article on the Top 3 Rolex Watches at Watches and Wonders 2024
Top 3 Rolex Watches from Watches & Wonders 2024
Watches & Wonders is here, and Rolex lovers are buzzing with excitement over the brand's latest releases. Let's dive into the coolest picks that are sure to turn heads!
Rolex GMT Master II - Black & Grey Bezel (A.k.a Bruce Wayne)
In a surprising turn of events, the iconic black bezel GMT Master II has made a comeback, albeit with a unique twist: a striking grey half encircling the bezel, a departure from its previous full black design discontinued back in 2019. Anticipated by numerous watch enthusiasts who had seen mock-ups circulating on reddit prior to its release, this rendition, though lacking in groundbreaking originality, stands out as Rolex’s most notable steel release in 2024.
We anticipate that this watch will typically be sought after in your local ads but won’t be excessively in demand within a year.
Rolex 1908 - Platinum Guilloche rice-grain motif
Rolex’s most captivating addition to the 1908 lineup is a platinum model featuring a mesmerizing Guilloché rice-grain dial. This luxurious timepiece joins the existing white and yellow gold variants, and it arguably steals the show. However, prepare to loosen your purse strings – the leather-strapped platinum 1908 starts at a cool £26,000. While a slightly lower price point would undoubtedly propel it to mega-hit status, the exclusivity and intricate craftsmanship undeniably justify the cost.
Rolex DayDate 40 / 36 - Green Dials
Rolex caps off its latest releases with a stunning Day-Date surprise: two unique green dials in a single timepiece. One variation boasts classic Roman numerals, while the other dazzles with baguette diamond hour markers. This audacious design is certain to become a collector’s favourite, but be prepared to invest – it carries a hefty price tag of around £34,000.
Similar to the highly sought-after Olive Day-Date in rose gold, we anticipate these new green-dialed Day-Date models to command a premium of around £5,000 above retail price.
Any watches to avoid from Rolex?
While there were certainly some standout winners this year, there were also a few notable disappointments. Dive into our article highlighting The Worst 3 Rolex Watch Releases from Watches & Wonders 2024.
Are watches a good investment?
Depending on the brand you choose, some watches can be classified as a ‘good’ investment. However, like all investments, there are several factors to consider, such as the potential depreciation in the price of the purchased watch.
Here are some rules to adhere to when considering watch investments:
Rule No.1 - Stick to Your Budget
The primary rule when investing in watches is to adhere to your budget and try not to exceed it. The more you spend, the higher the risk of financial loss.
If you can comfortably afford to invest £10,000, limit your spending to that amount. If stretching your budget could cause financial strain, reconsider your investment strategy.
It’s advisable to reserve the funds for the desired watch and wait for availability rather than financing the purchase and accruing additional costs through annual percentage rates (APRs).
Rule No.2 - Select the Right Brand
Not all watch brands are equal. While there exists a certain level of snobbery surrounding watch brands, it’s an undisputed fact that some brands are more collectible and sought after than others.
This doesn’t necessarily make them superior, but it does increase their investment potential. Among the top brands offering investment potential are Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe.
Rule No.3 - Choose the Right Model
After determining the brand you prefer, it’s crucial to select a model that has a high likelihood of retaining or increasing its value. However, this decision is heavily influenced by market trends. What’s popular today may not hold the same appeal in six months or a year.
As of 2024, the most sought-after models include the Rolex Submariner, GMT Master 2, and Daytona; the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak; and the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut.
Rule No.4 - Choose Your Desired Specifications
Within each model, various characteristics differentiate one watch from another. These include the type of metal used, which can range from steel to gold or platinum, as well as the bracelet variations, such as different styles or materials like rubber.
Most importantly, consider the dial variations. When contemplating a watch purchase with future investment potential, pay close attention to the dial, as it is the most unique and sought-after feature.
Popular dials often feature bold colors or rare materials, setting them apart from more conventional counterparts. These distinctive characteristics make them highly desirable to collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Rule No.5 - Always Purchase Something You Like
While it may seem obvious, many individuals find themselves swept up in the allure of luxury watches and make impulsive purchases without considering their personal taste. Investing in a watch that you dislike or find uncomfortable to wear can lead to disappointment and financial loss in the long run.
A final thought
Like all investments, the value of watches can fluctuate, sometimes rising and sometimes falling. It’s essential to understand that while watches can be viewed as long-term investments, conducting thorough research is crucial when purchasing luxury items. Ensuring the legitimacy, authenticity, and solid provenance of the items is advised.
As a watch collector and enthusiast, I’ve come to accept that the value of my collection might not equate to half of what I initially invested in it, and that’s perfectly fine with me. Each watch in my collection holds sentimental value, telling its own unique story of why I acquired it. To me, watches transcend mere investment—they represent a beloved hobby that I share with friends and fellow enthusiasts worldwide.
To help retain your watches value check out our article: 7 tips to retain the value of your luxury watch
What are Instagrams Community Guidelines on watch-related content?
If you're an avid watch enthusiast, you might have noticed some of your posts being removed by Instagram's algorithm, citing breaches of community guidelines. But what exactly does this entail, and how does Instagram classify an image, taken by yourself, as a breach of community guidelines?
Share only photos & videos you have taken or have the right to share:
It’s evident that original imagery is key, yet Instagram’s algorithm may misconstrue similar wrist shots as brand images. This could be attributed to the abundance of wrist shots and their striking resemblance, potentially confusing the algorithm.
Post photos and videos that are suitable for a diverse audience:
While the community might encourage and support slightly risqué watch shots, Instagram’s algorithm could flag them, affecting subsequent posts that are completely PG.
Foster meaningful and genuine interactions:
The essence lies in the captions you choose. A descriptive narrative about your day or the watch’s history would be deemed meaningful and genuine, whereas a concise caption like “Today’s wrist shot with [insert brand name]” might trigger the algorithm’s spam filter.
Follow the law:
Legal obligations vary by country. For instance, featuring firearms alongside a watch might be innocuous in one region but problematic in another, such as the UK’s strict stance on imitation firearms.
Respect other members of the Instagram community:
While constructive criticism is valued, Instagram’s policies might not always align. What you perceive as constructive feedback, like expressing weariness over another Speedmaster launch, might not meet Instagram’s criteria for acceptable discourse.
Help keep the community strong:
Reporting posts is a double-edged sword, subject to both genuine concerns and malicious intent. Instagram’s protocol likely involves prompt removal pending human review, ensuring the platform’s integrity.
To clarify, this interpretation reflects my understanding of Instagram’s approach to watch-related content, gleaned from existing guidelines and community feedback.
The New Rolex Model for 2024 - Name Revealed!
With the imminent discontinuation of the Yacht-Master II series, speculation abounds regarding Rolex's forthcoming timepieces, and recent trademark filings offer intriguing clues. As customary with Rolex, each series undergoes trademark registration before its official unveiling, and the emergence of new trademarks under Rolex S.A in 2023 fuels anticipation for potential releases in 2024.
Land-Dweller
Among the trademarks, ‘Land-Dweller’ stands out as the latest entry in the trademark journal. This name suggests a new series possibly akin to the acclaimed and intricate Sky-Dweller. While its exact functionalities remain shrouded in mystery, conjecture hints at its suitability for rugged terrains like deserts or jungles, possibly expanding Rolex’s explorer line. The prospect of another sports watch from Rolex is indeed exciting!
Space-Dweller
Fascinatingly, Rolex has recently protected the trademark ‘Space-Dweller,’ which dates back to 1966. Originally associated with the Rolex Explorer aboard the Apollo 8 mission to the moon, the Space-Dweller’s legacy was dormant until its recent resurgence in 2021. This revival suggests a potential expansion of the Sky-Dweller series, reaching for new heights, possibly in anticipation of the upcoming lunar mission in 2025. While its exact purpose remains speculative, the Space-Dweller may be tailored for space exploration, adding another dimension to Rolex’s esteemed ‘dweller’ collection.
Oystermatic
Lastly, ‘Oystermatic’ appears less as a watch name and more as a functional feature, indicated by its trademark classification under ‘parts of watches’. The specifics of this new functionality remain a mystery, sparking curiosity as to its potential applications. Speculatively, it could introduce innovative methods to enhance power reserve, akin to Omega’s Spirate System, promising advancements in Rolex’s timekeeping technology.
So what is coming up next from Rolex?
As for Rolex’s future moves, the company’s penchant for replacing discontinued models with new offerings is well-documented. While predicting Rolex’s precise course of action is challenging, the pattern suggests an exciting April 2024 release schedule, poised to captivate enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Take a look at our recent article around The Rolex Watches that will discontinued in 2024
The Rolex watches that will be discontinued in 2024
Yes, you've read it correctly. This is a confirmed list of watches set to be discontinued from the Rolex Watch catalogue in April 2024. How do we know this well-kept secret? We've been in touch with various authorised dealers from different brands and have collated consistent information across all of them. With a 99% degree of certainty, we can say that the following watches will be discontinued at the upcoming Watches and Wonders event.
Yacht-Master II
All watches from the Yacht Master II collection will be discontinued, encompassing all variations in steel, Rolesor, and full gold pieces. While this news may not surprise many Rolex collectors, it deals a significant blow to the Yacht Master line, which first debuted in 2007. The decision to discontinue stems from the Yacht Master II’s sales performance falling short of its smaller siblings, the Yacht Master and GMT Master. While we might see some fluctuations in its price, its lack of popularity suggests limited potential for a resurgence.
Datejust Motif Dials:
Another notable discontinuation is the Rolex Datejust Motif dials, known for their rarity and difficulty to acquire. As of April 2024, all variations of the motif dials found on steel and Rolesor models in 36mm and 41mm sizes will cease production. Among the most sought-after were the green palm 36mm Datejust and the green & blue motif Datejust 41. Expect these watches to appreciate in value, potentially by around 10% over current secondary prices.
Oyster Perpetuals – Coloured Dials
A significant blow to new and upcoming Rolex collectors is the discontinuation of the Oyster Perpetual coloured dials introduced in 2020. When these dials debuted, they enjoyed immense popularity, with most fetching a substantial premium, especially in the larger case sizes. With news of their discontinuation, these relatively affordable pieces are poised to skyrocket in value, with an estimated 30% increase over current premiums.
So what is coming up next from Rolex?
Given the prominence of these discontinued models, one can reasonably expect Rolex to introduce replacement models. Stay tuned for our next article – The New Rolex Model for 2024 – Name Revealed! for further insights.
Is a Rolex Watch a Good Short-Term Investment in 2024?
After a tumultuous year in 2023, consumers generally perceive that the majority of Rolex models may not be lucrative short-term investments. This sentiment arises from the watch market's volatile nature and the inundation of second-hand watches saturating the secondary market, making many Rolex watches highly competitive to sell at a premium.
Nevertheless, the long-term investment potential remains intact, allowing enthusiasts to acquire their long-awaited timepieces with the intention of holding onto them for the next 3-5 years, if not longer.
Should Rolex be Considered an Investment?
This categorisation varies depending on the perspective. From a collector’s standpoint, Rolex is not typically classified as an investment but rather as an heirloom that can be passed down to future generations.
Conversely, those attempting to sell you a watch might label it a ‘potential investment,’ as it could yield a modest return over the years of ownership. It’s essential to note that this viewpoint may be slightly biased, potentially making the purchase more palatable, particularly when the watch’s price exceeds the recommended retail price.
Should I Still Buy a Rolex if it Won't Appreciate as an Investment?
Certainly, consider Rolex as a brand to own, as it stands out among Swiss watch manufacturers for producing a superior product that can be liquidated and converted into cash anywhere in the world. While not guaranteeing profitability, this suggests that in times of urgent need for cash, a Rolex watch could serve as a reliable asset to quickly convert into funds.
What is the Best Rolex to Purchase in 2024?
Out of the entire collection of watches that Rolex offers, the top three watches consistently recommended are the Daytona, GMT Master II, and the Submariner. All three of these watches boast excellent heritage within military, popular culture, and engineering communities, solidifying their status as timeless classics.
What are the best ways to retain the value of my Rolex?
The optimal method for maintaining the value of your Rolex watch is by ensuring it stays in impeccable condition. This involves securely storing it in a dedicated watch case, such as our Clam Single Watch Travel Cases. This serves as the ideal solution to safeguard your watch from scratches or dents, whether during travel or when stored in a vault or safe.
For those aiming to preserve the bracelet of their watch in optimal condition we highly recommend considering the switch to one of our Rolex Rubber Straps.
By doing so, you can uphold the pristine appearance of your bracelet and minimise the general wear and tear associated with careful ownership.