Is this the end of the Bremont Watch Company?
With Bremont making their debut at Watches and Wonders for the first time in their history, the unveiling of their new branding and watch concept seems to have sparked considerable backlash from longtime owners. The shift away from the unique designs crafted by the English brothers has left many questioning the future direction of the Henley-on-Thames watchmaker. The pressing question on everyone's minds: Is this the end of Bremont as we know it?
The CEO
Image from WatchPro
The Branding
Under the leadership of the new CEO, a fresh visual identity emerged for Bremont, but unfortunately, it failed to meet the expectations set by the previous branding. The introduction of a new compass logo and accompanying typeface leaned more towards a military aesthetic, diverging from the classy and elegant image Bremont collectors had grown accustomed to. Some critics even likened the new look to the style of the clothing brand Stone Island, which didn’t quite align with the prestige expected of a luxury watch brand.
As glimpses of the brand’s new identity surfaced on social media, it became increasingly evident that this departure from Bremont’s aviation heritage could potentially impact the success of the watch launches.
The Watches
As Watches and Wonders unfolded, the unveiling of the new watches adorned with Bremont’s revamped identity sparked a wave of confusion and disappointment among onlookers. While the new timepieces weren’t necessarily unattractive, they failed to exude the essence of a luxury watch brand like Bremont. Each watch boasted intricate craftsmanship, yet the overall impression left many feeling underwhelmed.
Existing owners found themselves questioning the design decisions behind each model and were quick to point out perceived corners cut to minimize expenses on the new range. The narrative surrounding each watch’s creation aimed for authenticity, but the execution fell short of expectations, leaving a lingering sense of disappointment in its wake.
The Price
With the introduction of new models inevitably comes a fresh set of prices, and for current enthusiasts disheartened by the radical changes, this proved to be another point of contention. Many were taken aback by the pricing of the new models, further alienating them from the brand they once cherished. Some went as far as comparing Bremont to micro brands still finding their place in the market, noting the striking similarities in pricing with more established and meticulously crafted brands like Tudor.
Is this the end of the Bremont we've come to know?
The Worst 3 Rolex Watch Releases from Watches and Wonders 2024.
Where there are triumphs, there inevitably lurk a few disappointments. Let's delve into the three Rolex watches from Watches & Wonders 2024 that failed to impress, earning them a spot among the year's biggest letdowns.
Rolex DeepSea - A.k.a 'The Oil Baron'
The new Rolex Deepsea in full gold is a conversation starter. While its hefty 18k gold construction makes it less suited for deep dives, it offers a luxurious take on a professional-grade timepiece. This might appeal to collectors who value Rolex’s engineering heritage with a touch of opulence. However, the substantial weight and price point compared to the stainless steel Deepsea may limit its audience.
Rolex Daytona - M.O.P Dial & Diamond Bezel
The new gem-set Daytona collection offers a luxurious take on the iconic chronograph, featuring sparkling diamonds and a rare pearl dial. While it caters to a distinct clientele comfortable with a £90-100,000 price tag, it might not be the most universally desired iteration of the Daytona.
Rolex Sky-Dweller - Jubilee Variant
The Rolex market softening has impacted the Sky-Dweller, especially full yellow or rose gold models priced above £40,000. Rolex’s introduction of a Sky-Dweller with a jubilee bracelet presents an interesting twist. While it might increase the retail price, it could also broaden the watch’s appeal to those who prefer the jubilee style. The net effect on secondary market prices remains to be seen.
What did Rolex do well in 2024?
Rolex’s Watches and Wonders 2024 lineup offered a diverse range of releases, with some models sparking more excitement than others. Check out our article on the Top 3 Rolex Watches at Watches and Wonders 2024
Top 3 Rolex Watches from Watches & Wonders 2024
Watches & Wonders is here, and Rolex lovers are buzzing with excitement over the brand's latest releases. Let's dive into the coolest picks that are sure to turn heads!
Rolex GMT Master II - Black & Grey Bezel (A.k.a Bruce Wayne)
In a surprising turn of events, the iconic black bezel GMT Master II has made a comeback, albeit with a unique twist: a striking grey half encircling the bezel, a departure from its previous full black design discontinued back in 2019. Anticipated by numerous watch enthusiasts who had seen mock-ups circulating on reddit prior to its release, this rendition, though lacking in groundbreaking originality, stands out as Rolex’s most notable steel release in 2024.
We anticipate that this watch will typically be sought after in your local ads but won’t be excessively in demand within a year.
Rolex 1908 - Platinum Guilloche rice-grain motif
Rolex’s most captivating addition to the 1908 lineup is a platinum model featuring a mesmerizing Guilloché rice-grain dial. This luxurious timepiece joins the existing white and yellow gold variants, and it arguably steals the show. However, prepare to loosen your purse strings – the leather-strapped platinum 1908 starts at a cool £26,000. While a slightly lower price point would undoubtedly propel it to mega-hit status, the exclusivity and intricate craftsmanship undeniably justify the cost.
Rolex DayDate 40 / 36 - Green Dials
Rolex caps off its latest releases with a stunning Day-Date surprise: two unique green dials in a single timepiece. One variation boasts classic Roman numerals, while the other dazzles with baguette diamond hour markers. This audacious design is certain to become a collector’s favourite, but be prepared to invest – it carries a hefty price tag of around £34,000.
Similar to the highly sought-after Olive Day-Date in rose gold, we anticipate these new green-dialed Day-Date models to command a premium of around £5,000 above retail price.
Any watches to avoid from Rolex?
While there were certainly some standout winners this year, there were also a few notable disappointments. Dive into our article highlighting The Worst 3 Rolex Watch Releases from Watches & Wonders 2024.
The New Rolex Model for 2024 - Name Revealed!
With the imminent discontinuation of the Yacht-Master II series, speculation abounds regarding Rolex's forthcoming timepieces, and recent trademark filings offer intriguing clues. As customary with Rolex, each series undergoes trademark registration before its official unveiling, and the emergence of new trademarks under Rolex S.A in 2023 fuels anticipation for potential releases in 2024.
Land-Dweller
Among the trademarks, ‘Land-Dweller’ stands out as the latest entry in the trademark journal. This name suggests a new series possibly akin to the acclaimed and intricate Sky-Dweller. While its exact functionalities remain shrouded in mystery, conjecture hints at its suitability for rugged terrains like deserts or jungles, possibly expanding Rolex’s explorer line. The prospect of another sports watch from Rolex is indeed exciting!
Space-Dweller
Fascinatingly, Rolex has recently protected the trademark ‘Space-Dweller,’ which dates back to 1966. Originally associated with the Rolex Explorer aboard the Apollo 8 mission to the moon, the Space-Dweller’s legacy was dormant until its recent resurgence in 2021. This revival suggests a potential expansion of the Sky-Dweller series, reaching for new heights, possibly in anticipation of the upcoming lunar mission in 2025. While its exact purpose remains speculative, the Space-Dweller may be tailored for space exploration, adding another dimension to Rolex’s esteemed ‘dweller’ collection.
Oystermatic
Lastly, ‘Oystermatic’ appears less as a watch name and more as a functional feature, indicated by its trademark classification under ‘parts of watches’. The specifics of this new functionality remain a mystery, sparking curiosity as to its potential applications. Speculatively, it could introduce innovative methods to enhance power reserve, akin to Omega’s Spirate System, promising advancements in Rolex’s timekeeping technology.
So what is coming up next from Rolex?
As for Rolex’s future moves, the company’s penchant for replacing discontinued models with new offerings is well-documented. While predicting Rolex’s precise course of action is challenging, the pattern suggests an exciting April 2024 release schedule, poised to captivate enthusiasts and collectors alike.
Take a look at our recent article around The Rolex Watches that will discontinued in 2024
The Rolex watches that will be discontinued in 2024
Yes, you've read it correctly. This is a confirmed list of watches set to be discontinued from the Rolex Watch catalogue in April 2024. How do we know this well-kept secret? We've been in touch with various authorised dealers from different brands and have collated consistent information across all of them. With a 99% degree of certainty, we can say that the following watches will be discontinued at the upcoming Watches and Wonders event.
Yacht-Master II
All watches from the Yacht Master II collection will be discontinued, encompassing all variations in steel, Rolesor, and full gold pieces. While this news may not surprise many Rolex collectors, it deals a significant blow to the Yacht Master line, which first debuted in 2007. The decision to discontinue stems from the Yacht Master II’s sales performance falling short of its smaller siblings, the Yacht Master and GMT Master. While we might see some fluctuations in its price, its lack of popularity suggests limited potential for a resurgence.
Datejust Motif Dials:
Another notable discontinuation is the Rolex Datejust Motif dials, known for their rarity and difficulty to acquire. As of April 2024, all variations of the motif dials found on steel and Rolesor models in 36mm and 41mm sizes will cease production. Among the most sought-after were the green palm 36mm Datejust and the green & blue motif Datejust 41. Expect these watches to appreciate in value, potentially by around 10% over current secondary prices.
Oyster Perpetuals – Coloured Dials
A significant blow to new and upcoming Rolex collectors is the discontinuation of the Oyster Perpetual coloured dials introduced in 2020. When these dials debuted, they enjoyed immense popularity, with most fetching a substantial premium, especially in the larger case sizes. With news of their discontinuation, these relatively affordable pieces are poised to skyrocket in value, with an estimated 30% increase over current premiums.
So what is coming up next from Rolex?
Given the prominence of these discontinued models, one can reasonably expect Rolex to introduce replacement models. Stay tuned for our next article – The New Rolex Model for 2024 – Name Revealed! for further insights.
Will the Rolex Pepsi be discontinued in 2024?
The fate of the Rolex GMT Master 2 - 126710BLRO, affectionately known as the Pepsi, hangs in the balance as speculation mounts regarding its potential discontinuation. Having graced the wrists of enthusiasts since its introduction in 2018, the iconic timepiece faces the possibility of being retired, particularly with the 70th anniversary of the Rolex GMT Master 2 on the horizon in 2024.
Factors Influencing Discontinuation
One prominent factor contributing to the swirling rumors is the reported manufacturing challenges in creating the signature red and blue ceramic bezel of the Pepsi. Authorized dealers have hinted at these challenges, adding an air of uncertainty to the watch’s future. While taking such rumors with a grain of salt is prudent, there is a discernible suggestion that a reduction in supply may be on the horizon as Rolex potentially navigates a transition to a 41mm case size.
Anticipated Changes to the GMT Master 2
If the discontinuation rumors prove true, speculation arises about the potential changes that may accompany a revamped GMT Master 2. Foremost among these predictions is the upgrading of the movement, coupled with the adoption of a larger 41mm case size. Drawing parallels with the Submariner, which underwent a similar size increase in 2020, such modifications would align with Rolex’s pursuit of innovation and consistency across its lineup.
Potential Successor to the GMT Pepsi
In the event of the Pepsi’s retirement, enthusiasts are left to wonder what Rolex might introduce in its place. Speculation points towards the resurrection of the GMT Coke, now featuring a ceramic bezel and available on both the oyster and jubilee bracelet options. With its original introduction dating back to 1983, the GMT Coke has a storied history and remains a coveted choice among collectors. Opting for a darker-colored bezel could also alleviate manufacturing challenges, making the introduction of this model a logical and headache-free transition for Rolex.
When will we know?
New Rolex Watches at Watches and Wonders 2023
Welcome to the unconfirmed list of new Rolex watches that all watch enthusiasts like us are hoping and dreaming to come true.
To give a little bit of context to this article, not many people know the inside scoop around the annual Rolex releases and while many speculators (including ourselves) can try and figure it out we are all just imagining the possibility of our own predations coming true.
With that being said let’s focus on the facts of what we know about Rolex and what they have done in the past.
Special Birthdays
Every couple of years, Rolex will celebrate the birthday of one or two of their current model lines. This year (2023) is no different with the special 70th Birthday of the Rolex Submariner and the 60th Birthday of the Rolex Daytona.
Both these sports watches have had some commemorative upgrades in the past few years which have either been a great success or (in our opinion) significant downgrade.
Let’s start with the Submariner. This watch got an upgrade in 2021, featuring the new 3235 movements, a 41mm case size, a thicker bracelet, and replacing coloured dials on some models with black dials. While many saw this as a great improvement on the submariner the markets, unfortunately, didn’t. This saw the updated model 126610lv (The Starbucks) dipping way below the previous generation (116610LV – The Hulk).
However, on the flip side in 2016, the Rolex Daytona had a significant upgrade featuring a new 4130 movement and a ceramic bezel on all steel models. This upgrade was seen as a huge success and this started in the now infamous waiting lists that we know today.
In the background to the steel Daytona was the Daytonas Golden brother the 116508 which features a vibrant Green Dial most commonly seen on the Rolex Hulk. This watch, (nicknamed the John Mayer after the famous Hodinkee interview ‘Taking Watches’), was Rolex’s way of commemorating the Daytona’s success over its troubled beginnings as Rolex’s first and only chronograph watch. These new additions to the Daytona collection catapulted the demand for the brand and the word on everyone’s lips in 2023 is…What’s happening for the 60th birthday?
The Predictions
With two big birthdays happening for both the Submariner and the Daytona, we are expecting Rolex to issue some god-tier magic to live up to previous birthdays for other models.
So what do we think could be introduced in 2023?
Submariner Date - 126618LV
For those fans of the 116610LV (aka The Hulk), you will be drooling over the thought of a full yellow-gold submariner with a green dial and bezel. Some might say this will never happen however, everyone wants it to happen.
When the 116610LV got discontinued back in 2021, everyone was hugely disappointed as it was a simply stunning watch at a fantastic price point. Today it has been replaced with the 126610LV which features a less attractive black dial and green bezel. Did Rolex remove the green dial from the steel version to make way for the new updated gold version for the big 70th birthday?
We think so! Looking back at the Daytona and how that watch received the same treatment back in 2016, it would seem convenient to reissue the green dial submariner back into production in a beautiful 18k gold finish.
Rolex Daytona - 126501
The Rolex Daytona has been featured in many colour ways throughout the years, however, one colourway that has not been applied is the use of steel and everose gold. The beautiful colour tone which recently came out in 2018 on the GMT master 2 (aka the Rootbeer) became a smash hit and subsequently replaced steel with the yellow gold GMT master 2 variation.
Is this a big enough birthday surprise for the iconic Daytona? Well no, I don’t think it is and the leaves the door open to a holy grail Daytona which could be in the form of…
Rolex Daytona - 126505
This solid everose Daytona with the blue sunburst dial would be a collector’s dream as such a combination has never been tried on the Daytona. However, the rumor mill for 2022 had watch pundits such as Paul Thorpe suggesting that this colour variation could be featured on the day date line. Unfortunately, this never came to reality in 2022, however, the desire for everose gold on sports model watches has been growing since the introduction of everose in the GMT Master 2 range, and adding a blue dial to the Daytona would definitely be a statement piece.
Could this new addition discontinue the current 116508 ‘John Mayer’ Daytona? Yes, we think it could. Rolex have always been a fan of discontinuing watches even if they are immensely popular, so it wouldn’t be out of character for Rolex to do the same again here.
So, when will we know?
We can expect the rumor mill to be churning at least 1-2 weeks before the Watches and Wonders event in April 2023 but we won’t know for sure until the 1st of April 2023. Be sure to tune in to our Instagram stories as the news unravels and hopefully, we will all be in for some good surprises from Rolex this year.